The coupler came in, so I put the clutch centers on and checked it out. It looks pretty good! I pressed it into the bearing on my adapter plate, but that’s where I ran into the first issue: it was too big. I had not taken into account the tolerances required for a press fit bearing on the adapter plate or coupler. For now. I will skip the bearing. We will have to see if there are issues.
The second issue: the fit of the clutch center for the transmission was very close. When I pressed it into the coupler, it shrank too much to fit onto the transmission input shaft! I used a reciprocating saw with cut it and then pressed it back out. I have another clutch on the way, and I’ll grind this one down more so that it is closer to a slip fit. I will either use some Loctite Bearing Mount on it or I’ll weld it in.
Nice work, where did you get the leaf motor coupler from, is that a custom design ?
I designed the coupler myself. I attached the CAD drawing that I made to another post, if you want to use it. You will need to change the dimensions on it most likely, but I left it in a format where you could edit it if you wanted to. It uses the center sections from two clutch discs for the splines. I pressed them in and welded the edge.
Just been reading all you post, That have great info. Thanks for share details.
For the spline parts that your pressed in.
The female version to go over the Nissan e-motor output spline.
Where is that part from ?
Im trying to make adapter for a Range Rover gearbox
Also I just downloaded you cad files, what is the bearing you use and where can I get from please.
Was it added so that not causing force on he shaft when you press the clutch plate down ?
Darrel, I’ll be writing a new post shortly with an updated adapter plate and all the details. You’ll want to use the new one instead – trust me. It is vastly improved.
Can you explain a bit more how fitting the two different clutch centers into the coupler works? Are the clutch centers fitted so tight that the forces of the motor won’t cause these clutch centers to spin inside the coupler?
Then you go on to say you’d tack weld them in so they don’t move, where I would think that’s not enough, and wouldn’t you completely weld them into the coupler to avoid any movement whats so ever? I think i’m missing something with press fitting of the clutch centers.
With the tack or full welding, how are you balancing the coupler after? Is there a process you’re following or does the clutch centers and bit of welding not add any unbalanced material to the coupler? Can you share any pictures of the completed coupler you fitted?
I’m actually in the process of making a new coupler – the old one was a pretty quick job, since I just wanted to get the car running. Long story short, the clutch center isn’t pressed all of the way in. A lip is left around the top, and a weld is done around the entire thing. I found that deforming the clutch center is really easy, either with heat or with the press, so you have to be careful while putting it together. My plan is to clean up the welds on a lathe. My brother is building a steam car, and he’s gotten pretty adept at using one. Help helps me with some of that stuff.