I have seen a lot of questions about how to wire up Paul’s control board for the Nissan Leaf inverter. Please refer to the table below with my notes. If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment.
Control Board Connectors
2013-2017 Nissan Leaf Control Board Ver. 1.2 pinout
Pin 1 is marked with a white dot on the board.
| J5 Pin | Connected to | Notes |
| 1 | CAN High | CAN BUS is not yet implemented, so don’t worry about this. |
| 2 | CAN Low | CAN BUS is not yet implemented, so don’t worry about this. |
| 3 | Ground | You can use this ground for the USB interface, Throttle, etc. |
| 4 | Ground | You can use this ground for the USB interface, Throttle, etc. |
| 5 | USB Data – | This connection is for the USB interface. It is used to change software parameters after the microprocessor has already been programmed. You cannot reprogram the microprocessor through this interface. This wire is usually white in a standard USB cable. |
| 6 | USB Data + | This connection is for the USB interface. It is used to change software parameters after the microprocessor has already been programmed. You cannot reprogram the microprocessor through this interface. This wire is usually green in a standard USB cable. |
| 7 | USB VCC | This connection is for the USB interface. It is used to change software parameters after the microprocessor has already been programmed. You cannot reprogram the microprocessor through this interface. This wire is usually red in a standard USB cable. |
| 8 | Ground | You can use this ground for the USB interface, Throttle, etc. |
| 9 | Ground | You can use this ground for the USB interface, Throttle, etc. |
| 10 | Throttle Signal | This is the 0-5v output from through throttle position sensor or throttle potentiometer. |
| 11 | +5v | This pin is used for the +5v input for your throttle. |
| 12 | Ground | You can use this ground for the USB interface, Throttle, etc. |
| 13 | Ground | You can use this ground for the USB interface, Throttle, etc. |
| 14 | Fordward/Reverse 1 | Pins 14 and 15 may be connected to a switch. When the switch is closed, the motor will spin in one direction. When it is open, the motor will spin in the opposite direction. The initial direction is specified as a parameter in the software. |
| 15 | Forward/Reverse 2 | Pins 14 and 15 may be connected to a switch. When the switch is closed, the motor will spin in one direction. When it is open, the motor will spin in the opposite direction. The initial direction is specified as a parameter in the software. |
| J6 Pin | Connected to | Notes |
| 1 | External Temperature 1 | This pin is for reading a thermistor for temperature sensing. It is currently unused, so don’t worry about it. |
| 2 | External Temperature 2 | This pin is for reading a thermistor for temperature sensing. It is currently unused, so don’t worry about it. |
| 3 | Analog Brake Signal | This pin is used for a brake transducer. This links the regenerative braking level to the pressure in the brake system as you press the brake pedal. It is not currently used, but it could be. Regen is currently controlled through the throttle pedal. |
| 4 | Ground | You can use this ground for Motor Temperature Pin 2. |
| 5 | +5v | Currently unused. |
| 6 | Ground | You can use this ground for Motor Temperature Pin 2. |
| 7 | Ground | You can use this ground for Motor Temperature Pin 2. |
| 8 | Resolver Excite – | Also known as “Resolver !Excite”. See the graphic below for the resolver pinout. |
| 9 | Resolver Excite + | Also known as “Resolver Excite”. See the graphic below for the resolver pinout. |
| 10 | Motor Temperature Pin 1 | Currently unused in the software, but will be implemented later. The motor thermistor pin is on the resolver connector. |
| 11 | Resolver SIN + | See the graphic below for the resolver pinout. |
| 12 | Resolver SIN – | See the graphic below for the resolver pinout. |
| 13 | Resolver COS – | See the graphic below for the resolver pinout. |
| 14 | Resolver COS + | See the graphic below for the resolver pinout. |
| 15 | Ground | You can use this ground for Motor Temperature Pin 2. |
| J1-4 | Connects to | Notes |
| J1 | Precharge Coil + | If you are using the control board for precharge control, you will connect the +12v for the precharge contactor to J1. Connect the other coil wire to 12v auxiliary ground. |
| J2 | Contactor coil + | If you are using the control board for precharge control, you will connect the +12v for the main contactor to J1. Connect the other coil wire to 12v auxiliary ground. |
| J3 | Auxiliary Ground | This ground is not the same as what is used on J5 and J6. This ground connects to the auxiliary 12v system. |
| J4 | +12v | This powers the control board and the contactors. Connect this to the +12 auxiliary. |
The Resolver Connector
This one is easy. Just use the original connector that came with the motor. Cut the end off, leaving plenty of wire to work with, and connect the pins as labelled here. You will notice 2 TEMP pins. Connect Motor Temperature Pin 1 to TEMP1. !EX is Excite -, and EX is Excite +.
Oh my gosh you are literally sent from heaven above. Thank you for all your help. You have a real knack for explaining things. I think I confuse people with crappy wording.
I’m glad that you find the information in this format helpful!
Thanks for listing this. Why is J5 Pin 1-15 listed twice? Is that a mistake? Also, What connections actually control the inverter? Can L and H are listed as not implemented and I don’t see anything else that connects to the inverter. I don’t have my control board yet, so maybe it will be an obvious connector, but I thought I would ask to be sure. All of your posts are great. The cad drawing for the adapter plate is perfect.
Typo 🙂 Fixed. If I end up needing another plate, I will rotate the center holes a bit and add a locating ring. Keep that in mind, as it’s not tested in the car, yet. Looks pretty good, though, and lines up well!
I don’t think you realise how much you’re helping us all! Can’t wait to build my first electric car and determined to use one of Paul’s boards.
Thanks again for your posts. They really are a big help. I am converting an old mustang using the leaf motor and P&S controller board. I am curious if you considered using the precharge control and if you know how it works on this board. Is it just a timer based control? So many seconds of precharge and then the main contactor is switched on and precharge contactor is switched off. Any other insights you can share would be awesome. I was also considering using the precharge circuit in the leaf or the Zeva Smart Precharger.
You’re welcome! I used the precharge control during testing, but the BMS that I am using manages the precharge. The precharge system on Paul’s board is timer based. I believe the default precharge time is 3000ms. It’s sufficient, but you have to wire it up a little strangely to get it to run a positive and negative contactor in tandem with the precharge contactor. It would have to close the negative contactor and the precharge at the same time, then the negative and positive after precharge is completed. I’m sure it would work fine, but the functionality to support both more easily is built into my BMS. The one in my BMS will also read the voltage and make sure it’s actually precharging before it closes the contactors, which is another level of safety. The ZEVA BMS in the MG does the same thing.
Paul’s board will close the precharge contactor for the time you set, then it will close the main contactor, then it will open the precharge contactor. One wire from the battery pack is assumed to be connected, while the other goes through a contactor.
Any of these would work well, in all honesty.
Jeff, why would you have to only close the negative contactor and the precharge relay THEN close the positive contactor? I am using the Leaf precharge as is, and Paul says to just wire the two main contactors so they close at the same time. He says he has not done this as he has just used one main contactor in his testing.
Another thing. There are 2 pins for forward/reverse. As you say that ON = a settable direction and OFF is the opposite direction, should I only need to use one of these pins and a ground?
A switch is connected to both of the pins. When the pins are joined, it’s one direction, and it’s the opposite direction when they’re disconnected.
If you do not close the negative contactor, the precharge contactor will not be able to actually close the circuit. You will have the negative disconnected and the positive on precharge. If you’re using just one contactor, it doesn’t matter. If you have two contactors, one on each side of the battery, and one precharge contactor, you must close the precharge contactor and the contactor on the opposite side to complete the circuit.
Thanks so much for all this information about the Leaf motor. With so many out there now it seems like they are a great motor to build a project around. In regards to the P&S board: Are you just wiring the board straight into the inverter in place of the Nissan board? I know Paul does in depth about building a three-phase controller and you followed that for your DC build, but I would assume that most of that hardware is already in Nissan’s inverter and you’re just wiring in the board. Correct me if I’m wrong. Thanks for taking us along on this journey. It’s really cool to watch it develop.
Are you planning to use the field weakening as simulating an electric second gear for highway speeds? It looks like you’re planning to leave it in second gear with a welded coupler so, again, I’m making that assumption; but it seems like it would make sense. Do you know what the maximum RPM limit on this particular motor is? Thanks again.
The connectors from the original brain board in the inverter need to be removed from it and attached to Paul’s board. From there the original wires plug straight into the board. This is much, much easier than building the DC controller 🙂
I am planning on leaving the transmission in second gear and using field weakening to increase the top speed. We will have to see how the transmission handles it. I can add a shift lever easily enough if it becomes an issue! I’ve heard that someone took the motor up to 15,000 RPM, but I do not know what the limit is. I think in the stock leaf they take it up to about 11,500 RPM.
Oh! I forgot my other question. Can the Nissan compressor for the AC be controlled as well? I imagine you haven’t even put any thought into that, yet; but I thought I might ask.
I haven’t looked at that, actually. There are some high voltage AC compressors that work with just power and an enable line. I’m trying to sort that out, actually. I’ll add a post about it when I find one.
This is what I got from Paul when ordering my board…
2011-2012 Nissan Leaf Control Board Ver. 1.2 pinout
CN2 (The big white connector):
Pin 1: !EXCITE
Pin 2: UNUSED
PIN 3: EXCITE
PIN 4: UNUSED
PIN 5: SIN+
PIN 6: UNUSED
PIN 7: SIN-
PIN 8: UNUSED
PIN 9: COS-
PIN 10: UNUSED
PIN 11: COS+
PIN 12: UNUSED
PIN 13: UNUSED
PIN 14: ground from control board (can be used for 2nd wire of temperature)
PIN 15: temperature pin 1
PIN 16: unused
PIN 17: Ground for 12v input power
PIN 18: unused
PIN 19: Ground for 12v input power
PIN 20: Ground for 12v input power
PIN 21: USB VCC (the red wire in a USB cable)
PIN 22: unused
PIN 23: USB DATA+ (the green wire in a USB cable)
PIN 24: USB DATA- (the white wire in a USB cable)
PIN 25: unused
PIN 26: forward/reverse pin #1
PIN 27: 0-5v analog brake input
PIN 28: unused
PIN 29: 0-5v analog throttle
PIN 30: +5v from control board (for powering analog throttle, analog brake)
PIN 31: unused
PIN 32: CAN LOW
PIN 33: unused
PIN 34: CAN HIGH
PIN 35: precharge out + (this powers the positive coil of the precharge relay)
PIN 36: CONTACTOR out + (this powers the positive coil of the main contactor)
PIN 37: CONTACTOR out + (this powers the positive coil of the main contactor)
PIN 38: +12v input power
PIN 39: unused
PIN 40: +12v input power
I never seem to get the DC motor going in your controller but I have purchased a leaf motor wonder if you could help me with the bold and the price
Paul, I’m afraid that I can’t give you any purchase details, but I have a post on my site detailing information about the DC board. Search for the High Power DC Control Board. You’ll want to talk to Paul Holmes if you need more information about prices and purchases.
Jeff, how do you get a neutral with this wiring? I initially thought pin 14 to ground would be one direction and 15 to ground would be the other direction nut if it is just a single pole switch then there leaves no room for a neutral (power on to the system but not moving anywhere). Also, did you use the analogue brake signal? I thought with regen doing 80% of braking all you needed was standard brakes which do not need any electrical signal back to to the board.
Hey, Mike. There is no neutral. That just selects the direction that the motor spins. Neutral shouldn’t be necessary, since there is no idling.
The throttle pedal does both regenerative braking and throttle. Max regen at 0, up to the deadzone, then increasing up to max throttle at 100%. The brakes could still be used, of course.
I was contemplating using the stock leaf shift knob which has a centre off position, up for forward and back for reverse (or something like that) which means the centre position is a pseudo neutral
Ah, gotcha. I’m not sure what would be the best use there, since there’s really only two positions. I was thinking of using a shift lever for this purpose as some point, as well, just to make it feel more intuitive.